Topic

By: mw1969
Posts: 8
Joined: 01/03/12

Brakes

Had my Mk1 Gleneagles about a month now and the fron brake started to bind and now seems to have stopped working totally.  looking at all the disks al round they seem in pretty poor condition so was thinking of gettign the brake disks & pads replaced.  Any thoughts as to how much this would cost?  Is it a job that a novice could do with a haynes manual or woudl it need garage to do? what sort of cost would it be from a garage?

Replies

  1. RE: Brakes

    mx5parts.com have new break calipers (I bought a new set of brake disks a couple of months ago), the mx5 is nice and cheap compared to most cars. You could quite easily replace the brakes yourself, though I prefer to let a garage to brake stuff for reasons of safety and culpability ;)

    Probably won't more than an hour labour per wheel.

    Posted: Jun 29 2012 By: bloodline   Posts: 448
  2. RE: Brakes

    Hi, and welcome to the Gleneagles club. 

    I decided to replace my brakes last year after the MOT garage commented on how useless they were. I started thinking I just wanted to do the pads at the front which were easy enough but the rear calipers were a real pig. I ended up replacing the discs, getting reconditioned calipers, putting new braided hoses on and a new pipe from the master cylinder to the FNS wheel because the old pipe broke when separating it from the flexible pipe union. One reason I went for recon calipers was that I realised that the bleed nipples were likely to shear and at that point I'd have to replace them anyway.

    It took a long time, next time I work on them I will be much quicker now I know what to expect. The old stuff was nearly sixteen years old and hadn't been worked on for some time but with new fluid, braided hoses, pads and discs the car stops much more positively and I am confident that the job has been done properly. If you have the time and are prepared to take your time - I used a lot of Plus Gas which I delivered to the required rust with a syringe to ensure it went where it was needed - but the confidence gained from doing it myself is priceless - and it was a lot cheaper than paying a garage to do it.

    The flexible hoses can particulate on the inside after time and little bits of rubber can be forced under pressure into the pistons and then get stuck, which seizes the brakes on. The pressure eventually equalises but that's no good when you're driving. That's why I change dthe hoses.

    Good luck and let us know how you get on.

    Posted: Jul 07 2012 By: bruce59   Posts: 138
  3. RE: Brakes

    Obviously, you should never compromise on safety when brakes are involved and recon calipers may be needed. However,  it could simply be that the brake pistons have gummed up a bit thus they are not retracting. Before spending oudles of money, the first thing I would do is simply drop the caliper off then compress and gently (thats very gently) pump the brake pedal to force the piston out a little way. Repeat a couple of times.  If pads and everything all look in good nick, chances are the problem of binding brakes will be solved.  Don't want to tell you to suck eggs but whatever you do, don't go anywhere near brake caliper pistons with oil based easing products.  

    Braided hoses are certainly a good idea as is a change of fluid. Both will do more to sharpen up brakes than changing pads and discs for the sake of it.  

    Posted: Jul 11 2012 By: Jules2477   Posts: 961
  4. RE: Brakes

    Yes you only put Plus Gas on rusty, seized metal not rubber but then perhaps not everyone realises that.

    Content is edited
    Posted: Jul 12 2012 By: bruce59   Posts: 138
  5. RE: Brakes

    From what you say in your OP it sounds like the calipers need attention, yet you're asking about discs and pads. In that context unless you REALLY know what you're doing it sounds like a garage might be the safer solution, though more expensive...

    Have you worked on brakes on a car at all previously?



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    Posted: Jul 15 2012 By: drjones   Posts: 878